This blog originally started in 2009 as a chronicle of my life and work in Western Uganda. I have now been back in the US for over two years. I hope to return to East Africa soon.
Monday, March 30, 2009
Two Months in Uganda
1.Ugandan’s are the hardest working people- I live in a rural part of Uganda where most people are subsistent farmers. They wake up at dawn and start toiling in their gardens. People here grow nearly everything they eat with the exception of meat. Meat is usually purchased on Saturdays in the trading center after a cow has just been slaughtered. Most people live on less than $1 a day so growing everything they eat is a must for survival. It is not uncommon to see women with babies strapped to their backs working under the hot sun all day.
2.Childhood is not universal- While Universal Primary Education was introduced about eight years ago requiring every Ugandan child to attend school though P7 (7th grade), many children are not in school. Some families choose to keep their children at home because they need help in the home or garden. For the majority of children who do go to primary school about half of them drop out by P6. While American children are watching cartoons before school, Ugandan children do about hour and a half of chores before school; these may include working in the garden, sweeping the compound, cleaning the house, helping with meal preparations etc. After school children continue with chores often having little time for homework or studies.
3.While the above is true, young children have a wonderful life- Because most of the families are farmers; children are with their parents and other extended relatives all day. Leon, the 1 and a half year old who I adore has attention from any number of people everyday. He has a huge area to run and play in; one of his favorite pastimes is to chase the chickens around the compound! Since he has grown up around nature, he has a keen eye, he can spot a new bird before the rest of us even see it!
4.The first month was the hardest- There were times during the first month were I thought I’m not sure I can do this, it wasn’t the living without electricity or modern conveniences that was so challenging. In fact at times I relish in the simple life. No, rather it was being so far away from anything that was familiar and getting used the conditions that people live in. At the end of two months, I can truly say that I am glad that I took this opportunity and chance.
5.Every email, phone call, letter, and care package brightens my day- Throughout this entire process; I have been blessed by amazing and supportive friends and family. This week, I got my first care package!! I had been so desperate for non work books that I devoured the 660 page book in two days!
6.Education in Uganda- The teachers here especially in the rural schools have all of my respect. Every day, they go to buildings that are falling down many with dirt floors to teach over 100 students with no text books or other learning resources. I have seen teachers that give their best every day in a very challenging situation. I have also seen teachers who don’t come to school because they have lost hope or they have side business to attend to.
7.Training teachers- In the last week, I have trained 96 teachers!!! This past weekend alone, I had 41, P5-P7 teachers. Teachers here have very few opportunities for professional development so I am thrilled to be able to offer trainings.
8.Chances are worth taking- This time last year, if someone told me I would be in Africa within the year, I would have thought they were nuts! I am thrilled that I took this chance.
9. I have met the amazing people- From the teachers who work tirelessly in challenging situations to development workers trying to help to tourist from all around the world- I have met incredible people in the last two months.
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
What’s for dinner?
Here are some typical meals:
Breakfast
There is always tea with breakfast and almost always a banana.
Banana and a roll or slice of bread
Banana and an omelet with fresh veggies
Millet porridge- Millet is eaten a lot here both in bread and porridge. I can’t stand the bread but the porridge is okay
Lunch
Mashed potatoes with onions and carrots
Potatoes cooked in tomato sauce
Spaghetti
Cassava, smoked fish in ground nut sauce, spinach,, avocados, and matooke (steamed bananas)
Rice with beans and cooked cabbage
Dinner
Rice, matooke, spinach in groundnut sauce, and chapatti (fry bread)
Rice, posha ( similar to polenta) , beans, pineapple
Matooke, beef stew, and sweet potatoes
Sunday, March 22, 2009
My seventh week in Uganda!
1. Mail from home- I got three letters from the states this week! It’s my first real mail since I’ve been here. Thank you!!
2. Avocados make great gifts- I have found Ugandans to be so generous. I went to visit a friend in his store and he gave me an avocado to take home. I have been given sugarcane, pineapples, potatoes, and avocados as gifts! Tinka says he’ll send me out more often to do “food-rasing” for the family.
3. Training, Training, and more Training- This week I trained 6 staff at one of the local science centers which bought back memories of working in museums in the states. Than this weekend, I trained over 60 teachers from 11 schools surrounding Kibale National Park. It is challenging to train in another culture as my accent is new to them and my approach is different than what they are used to but we had a great time learning new environmental education activities that they can use in their classes. Halfway though day 2, I twisted my ankle so I had facilitate the rest of the training from a chair!
4. Not as sweet as you once were- I had my first candy bar in seven weeks, not only was it not as good as I remembered but it triggered a migraine!
5. Yoga- Leon and I have discovered a new game. He likes to mimic all of my “yoga” moves- so there I am lying on my mat waiting for dinner (we eat outside on the ground) and Leon is doing yoga with me. Too cute!
6. Rain, rain go away- I don’t mind the rain so much, so far during rainy season we only have one or two storms a day. What I do mind however is typically that means the much of the day is cloudy so we don’t get any solar power. This means I can’t charge my computer! I’m okay not having air conditioning, TV, a refrigerator ( i.e. no cold drinks), lights, etc.. but I do like to have a charged computer.
7. Debate-This week I attended a debate between two of the schools I work with on a conservation topic. I was very impressed with the 7th graders passion for the subject and their ability to articulate their views in their second language, English.
8. Family planning- Over drinks one of the teachers that I work with asked me about family planning or contraceptive use in America. It is seen as the woman’s responsibility here and there are not many good options. Of the few options that are available to women here, most have unpleasant side effects. She thought since I came from America, I could train the woman in the villages on better family planning. I however, am not a health educator- just an example of one of the needs in this area of the world.
9. Creepy Crawlies- After being here almost two months, I still hate bugs, spiders, lizards, geckos, moths, and other creepy crawlies. As an Environmental Educator trainer here, I know that they all serve their purpose in nature. However, I hate having them crawl across my plate when I’m eating, climb the walls in my banda, waking up with bug bites, and always hearing things buzzing!
10. No more bathing out of a bucket- I got home today and Tinka has rigged up a shower for me !!! There is a large container that water will be poured into then gravity will pull the water into the shower head. For the last seven weeks I have been taking a sponge bath using a basin and two gallon jugs- this will be a nice treat.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Week 6- Magic Moments
1. Making Friends- As an extrovert one of the hardest parts of being here is not having friends to share my experience with. While many people here speak English as a second language, it is spoken with varying levels. I am learning Rutoro but at the moment the only one I can converse with is Leon! I spent three days this week traveling with the two Americans; Holly and Alice that I met at the guest house in Fort Portal. As fate would have it meeting them couldn’t have come at a better time for me and they were even here working on a similar conservation project though the OR Zoo.
2. Spending the night in a tree house- In Kibale National Park you can spend the night in a tree house that’s deep in the forest. Alice, Holly, and I decided to book it for one night. The tree house is very cool, you have to walk about 1/2 mile to get to it. It sits about 30 feet up in the air and over looks this beautiful clearing that elephants like to frequent. We didn't see any elephants but we did hear the most incredible sounds in the forest at night. It was such a an amazing experience.
3. The naming ceremony- There are two regions in this country that give pet names and there are only 12. On the night that I was to be given my pet name, we had a ceremonial meal of millet bread ( the only food here I don’t like), cassva, beef, matoke, beans and beer. The family preformed some songs and dances then all took turns suggesting names. They decided on Atenni for me which means snake goddess! The name then had to be blessed by a burst of laughter by everyone present (no I'm so not making this up). Evidently, the way this works if you respect someone than you call them by their pet name. I had people asking me if I had one yet- so I'm glad to be able to tell them yes now.
4. Getting trapped in the latrine- Uganda has two kinds of seasons, rainy and dry. Rainy season has officially started; so far it’s not so bad we just have one rainstorm a day. One evening, I went to the latrine and while I was there a huge rainstorm started with lighting, thunder and a strong downpour. I decided to stay in the latrine thinking it would pass. What I didn’t know was everyone in the house was watching me and laughing at me being trapped in the latrine. The storm wasn’t slowing down so Grace (one of the teenage girls) came and got me with an umbrella.
5. Calls and emails from home- I appreciate every email and phone call, it’s always great to hear from familiar voices.
6. Leon locking me in my banda- I had the door closed while I was changing and Leon didn’t like that as he was on the other side trying to get in. So using the outside lock he locked me in my house!! He couldn’t unlock it and was crying because he couldn’t get to me so I had to call out to his sister to come and unlock my house so I could get out!
7. Meeting people from all over the world- This week alone I’ve had meals with folks from with Switzerland, Oregon, Massachusetts, Austria, England, Germany, the Netherlands and of course Uganda. The family serves lunch to many the visitors who want to experience an authentic Ugandan meal so I have the opportunity to eat with visitors from all over the world here at “home”. When I go into Fort Portal and stay overnight at the guest house, I also meet the most fascinating people, the last two nights I was the only American at the table but we had 5 countries represented! In the last six weeks, I have met amazing people both Uganda’s trying hard to make their lives better and folks from all over the world working on a variety of development projects.
8. Having the wind in my hair-I’ve never thought of myself as the motorcycle ridding type but even I have to admit that there is something to having the wind in your hair as your going 40 miles an hour on these crazy dirt roads. My longest boda-boda ride so far has been about 25 mins and I loved it!
9. I’m on the Hollins website- Hollins has posted a short blurb about my work here and link to my blog on the alumnae accomplishment page- http://www.hollins.edu/alumnae/accomplishments.htm! I feel so very proud to have been included.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Visiting Uganda
If anyone is interested in visiting before the end of July, please let me know. Even if you can't make it before I leave, I encourage you to put Uganda on your travel list.
Here are the details:
What is there to see
Other than coming just to see me there are lots of great things to see and do in and around where I'm living.
Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary
I've never been much into birds but I have fallen in love with this sanctuary. I have taken the 5k guided walk three times so far. Each time is different. I have seen many species of monkeys, birds, and plants each time! The sanctuary was formed to protect the Magombe Swamp, a haven for 137 bird species. The sanctuary is operated by the local community.
Kibale Forest National Park
Kibale is an amazing park and has lots of great tourist activites. I have gone chimp treeking and spent the night in a tree house 30 ft high in the forest here. Here is a great description from www.lonelyplanet.com/uganda
The chimpanzees are the stars at Kibale. There are hundreds and hundreds here, plus great hordes of monkeys, giving this small national park (admission 1/2/3 or more days US$20/30/50) one of the highest primate population densities in the world. It’s not as strenuous as tracking the gorillas. The chimps tend to keep a safe distance in the tall trees, chomping on fruit and defecating at will, but it’s still a fascinating experience for the uninitiated. An excitable chimp makes mountain gorillas look decidedly shy.
From the park headquarters at Kanyanchu, guided walks in search of the chimps (3km to 5km, two to four hours) can be arranged along well-marked tracks. The walks start at 8am (the better time) and 3pm and cost US$70 per person, plus park fees.
Other things to seeIn addition to the sites right around where I am, the entire country is amazing. I can't wait to get to Queen Elizabeth Park where you can see big game animals. Again from www.lonelyplanet.com/uganda
Uganda is home to the highest mountain range in Africa, the Mountains of the Moon in the Rwenzori National Park which is not to far from Bigodi. It is the source of the mighty Nile, and around Jinja offers the best white-water rafting in the world! It has the highest concentration of primates on earth, including the majestic mountain gorilla, one of the rarest animals on the planet. Head to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park for a chance to get close to these great apes.
On top of all this, the scenery is so striking that it looks like an oil painting, the beautiful national parks see far fewer visitors than in neighbouring Kenya and Tanzania, and the capital, Kampala, is safer and friendlier than most in Africa. In 1907 pioneering tourist Winston Churchill called it the ‘Pearl of Africa’. He was right.
Getting to Uganda
You will fly in to Entebbe International Airport (EBB) which is located on the shores of Lake Victoria about 40km south of the capital which is Kampala. Entebbe International offers direct connections from Nairobi, Kigali, Dar es Salaam, Addis Ababa, Khartoum, Cairo, Johannesburg, Dubai, London, Amsterdam and Brussels. I flew on British Air to London than to Entebbe. We flew from Greensboro to London then to Entebbe. It was two overnight flights with a 10 hour layover. My round trip including taxes and all fees was $1900.
Getting to Bigodi/Kibale National Park
I may be able to come pick you up or I can help you arrange for a tour company to make the five hour trip from Kampala to Bigodi.
Where to stay
There are few places to stay in Bigodi where I'll be living. One is www.traveluganda.co.ug/safari-hotel-bigodi, which is run by the family that I'm living with. You can make reservations online. There are also other places in Bigodi, in Kibale National Park or in nearby Fort Portal. You can also stay with me in the familys home. They are used to having tourist stay with them and are truly wonderful.
General information on Uganda from www.lonelyplanet.com/uganda
- Seasons
Wet (March to May, October to November), dry (December to February, June to September). Uganda can be visited at any time of year. It is about 75 degrees year round and will drop down to 50 at night. The hottest months are from December to February.
- Budget
US$20 a day in town, US$100 in parks
- Capital
Kampala
- Visa
US$30 for one month; issued at most borders. Can easily be gotten at the airport.
- Languages
English, Luganda
- Money
Ugandan shilling; US$1 = USh 1900
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Pictures
The challenge is my Internet is soo slow here that uploading pics rarely works. I will be burning them to a CD soon and sending them back to the states to be posted on here from there.
In the meantime, here is a link to a few pictures that I have been able to upload:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=73083&id=572152211&l=30afb
I have also put the link to this album where I will continue to add pictures as I can on the right hand side of the blog.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
My fifth week in Uganda
1. Today’s special- Sometimes it really is the little things that make all the difference. During lunch one day, I was told today’s special was matoke but when I lifted thee lid it was spaghetti!! After weeks of eating only “local food” at home: beans, groundnut sauce, cassava, posha, matoke, and goat, it was such a treat to get familiar food!!
2. Birds and worms- Last Saturday, we had our second UNITE meeting with all the teachers and headmasters that are currently involved in our program. My favorite part was when I taught them a new activity on camafloge and animal adaptation to do with their students called “Birds and Worms”. The activity is a relay race where each person is a “bird” and they are trying to find the “worms” hidden in the ground. In this case the “worms” were green coffee, dried corn, and groundnuts. It was hilarious to watch the teachers and headmasters topple over each other trying to get to the worms!!
3. After weeks of waiting- We had two baby goats born this week. They are absolutely adorable. Now at the homestead we have two adult goats, two baby goats, a few chickens, and two dogs.
4. Samilyn, samilyn- Leon, the now seventeen month old who I live with has just learned to say my name but it comes out as “samilyn”. It’s too cute. This week he also figured out that he can walk from his parents house to my banda by himself. So now when I’m working in my banda, I hear the pitter patter of little feet and “samilyn, samilyn”, I know I have a visitor!
5. I can help with that- After the disastrous experience of me attempting to help with the laudry and peeling matokee, we have found three things that I can do. I am becoming skilled at shelling groudonuts (peanuts), peeling beans, and roasting groundnuts! Three very marketable skills!
6. Children’s performances- On a school visit this week; I was treated to a wonderful performance of traditional folk songs and dances from the two tribes of this region. It is nice to music and dance still have a place in schools, it’s something I think American schools could learn from Uganda! The children are so very talented.
7. Something I can do- Often when I go to visit schools, the problems they want my help with are so big ; like not enough teachers, too many students, falling down buildings or no permanent buildings at all, that often what I can do to impact those areas is minimal. However, this week a school needed help with sanitary supplies for girls, playground and soccer balls, a few extra uniforms, and a couple of basins for bathing. I could help with those things. I gave them the 20,000 Uganda shillings that I had on me (about $10) which would buy two uniforms and two basins and promised to help with the other items soon.
8. Little luxuries- This weekend, I stayed at a lovely guest house in Fort Portal and had my first shower, porcelain toilet, double bed, and salad in over a month! The guest house is run by a wonderful British/Dutch couple who prepare the most wonderful western food, it was a real treat. We even had a baked desert. In Bigodi, our foods are either steamed, roasted, or fried over a charcoal or kerosene burner. Nothing is baked since we don’t have a stove as we have no electricity.
9. It’s a small world- At the guest house; I met two American’s from the Oregon Zoo who are here working on a similar conservation education program. One of the women grew up in Raleigh!!! It was great to hear a southern accent.
10. Star light star bright- The stars here are absolutely incredible. I have never seen so many stars and they are so bright. I only wish I knew more about stars, at the moment all I can point out is the little dipper!
11. Ugandan wildlife- The wildlife here is truly amazing. One of my favorite things to do is to take the guided walk in the Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary. The walk takes about 3 hours and is truly breathtaking. On my most recent walk, I saw three kinds of monkeys, many different species of birds, and even had raw sugar cane!
12. A view of the mountains- From the porch of my banda, I have the most incredible view of the Rwenzori Mountains. I love to sit out there in the evenings and watch the sun set.
13. One day at a time- So far this has proven to be an amazing adventure but it does have its challenges. There are still many days when I miss my home, friends, and especially my pets. I try to just take it one day at a time and enjoy this incredible adventure.